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SET YOUR POOL UP NOW BEFORE THE HEAT ARRIVES

SPECIAL SITUATIONS
In very cold areas, some of you will have had your pipes drained & plugs inserted in to the fittings to keep them frost free, these have to be removed before you can start your pool for the summer.

If you have had a cover on the pool, make sure to remove all the leaves & rubbish from the cover so they do not go in to the pool when you remove the cover.

STEP BY STEP - (Some of the following points may not apply to your pool but I have to include all of them.)
1. LEAF & RUBBISH REMOVAL Remove all leaves & rubbish in the pool using a swimming pool leaf rake. (Never try to vacuum these out)

2. BRUSHING. If there is algae or any other growth attaching its self to the walls & floor, you should brush the walls & floor with a pool broom.
If it is stubborn, you may have to buy a stainless steel pool broom to remove it. (Be careful using on a vinyl liner pool).

3. SETTLE OR FLOC. After you have removed the leaves & brushed the walls & floor, you will find a lot of fine rubbish has been stirred up, you will need to let this settle or use a floc or settleing agent to drop it to the floor for vacuuming.

Remember, it is much less costly to physically remove as much solids as possible before using chemicals.

4. TOP UP POOL - Fill the pool to about 3-4 inches higher than normal running level. Do this before you add the settling agent. You are going to use this extra water to remove the heavy rubbish from the pool.

5. SKIMMER BOX & PUMP STRAINER - Check the skimmer box in the side of the pool to make sure that all the leaves are removed from the skimmer basket. If the basket has tipped over (happens often) make sure to dig all the leaves out of the bottom of the skimmer so they dont get sucked down the pump suction line, they could become blocked on the way. (A bit cold on the hands & watch out for frogs)

Clean the basket in front of the pump & run some water down the pipe to the skimmer box to make sure it is clear & to make sure the pump is primed, ready to start..

6. CHECK PUMP & FILTER - Especially if the pump has not been operated over the winter, then you need to:
Set the filter valve to the WASTE POSITION or if you dont have a waste position then DRAIN, if you only have FILTER & BACKWASH positions, then you need to disconnect the line between the pump & filter & direct the pump outlet to go to waste.

Switch the pump to the ON position for a few seconds, The pump should start to operate & begin pumping water to waste, if there is just a Hummmmm from the pump, switch it off straight away.
This normally means that the motor bearings have become seized over the winter, the pump & motor would need to be taken to a pool shop to have new bearings set in or call your local pool service company.

If the pump runs ok & starts to pump water, then let it run for 30 seconds & switch off.

During the 30 seconds, check for leaks between the pump & motor, normally out of the bottom, if you do have a leak here, then the mechanical seal which stops water moving back along the shaft has become stuck or worn & needs replacing. The pump & motor would need to be taken to a pool shop to have a new mechanical seal fitted or call your local pool service company.

7. VACUUM TO WASTE - Now that you know your pump is operating ok & you have settled the fine rubbish to the floor you will need to vacuum that fine rubbish to waste. (Never vacuum this type of rubbish, especially if it contains live or dead algae through your filter, never, never, never.)

Connect the vacuum as you normally would being careful not to stirr up the fine rubbish when you set your vacuum head on to the floor.

Switch on the pump & start vacuuming. You will find that you will be able to move the vacuum head quite quickly with out stirring up the fine rubbish.

YOU MAY HAVE TO REPEAT THE BRUSHING, SETTLING, VACUUMING TO WASTE A COUPLE OF TIMES IF THE RUBBISH OR DEBRI IS VERY HEAVY.

8. PRIMARY CHEMICAL ADDITION - If you find that the pool is looking reasonably clean on the walls & floor & the water allows you to see the bottom, then go straight to step 9.

If the algae is still green on the walls & floor after brushing & vacuuming, then do as follows:
CHECK & CORRECT THE Ph LEVEL TO 7.3
ADD THREE (3) POUNDS WEIGHT OF CALCIUM HYPOCHLORITE (POWDER CHLORINE) for each 10,000 gallons of water in the pool by sprinkling it directly on to the surface so it sinks down the walls & down on to the algae on the floor. This will burn in to the algae & you can brush it again in 24 hours & top up the pool & vacuum to waste again.
(if you have a vinyl liner pool, then you will have to use TWO (2) GALLONS of liquid chlorine instead of the powder.)

9. FILTER CLEANING:
SAND FILTER - If the filter has not had the sand changed for more than five years, then consider getting new sand put in the filter. (email me CHANGING SAND if you want to do this yourself, I have other instruction for you.)

After you have finished vacuuming to waste, & all the heavy rubbish is out of the pool, set the valve to the BACKWASH position & run the pump to backwash the filter sand. Run until the backwash water is clear, then use the RINSE position for 30 seconds & then move to the FILTER position. (Remember to never move the filter valve position while the pump is running, always switch off the pump first)

DIATOMACEOUS EARTH FILTER - Dismantle the filter tank & remove the internal filter pads & give them a good clean with a very light dish brush & detergent, rinse well in fresh water after.
Check for any holes in the pads & repair (after letting them dry) using fingernail polish. (Color does not matter).

Replace pads back in to filter, make sure valve is on the FILTER position.
Mix the required amount of DE powder with water & have it ready to pour in to the skimmer box after you start the pump.

CARTRIDGE FILTERS- Remove the filter cartridge from the tank & give it a good soak for 24 hours in cartridge cleaner which you can get from your local pool shop. Blast the cartridge clean with a good high pressure hose, (I have found the pressure hoses they have at car washes very handy). Rinse with clean water & place back in the filter tank.

If the cartridge is torn or collapsed at one or both ends or more than two years old, then replace it.

10. CHEMICAL SETUP -

Make sure to set your chemicals correct in the following order.
If you have a local pool shop then get them to check a sample of the water but only buy those chemicals you don't have on hand.

Correct as follows:
CALCIUM HARDNESS FIRST, SET TO 150 PPM IF IT IS NOT THAT HIGH NATURALY.

TOTAL ALKALINITY NEXT, CORRECT TO 80-100 FOR NORMAL POOLS & 120-130 FOR POOLS USING SALT CHLORINATORS

pH NEXT SET TO 7.4-7.6

WHEN ALL THESE ARE DONE, THEN ADD THE CHLORINE.

For information on amounts of chemical to add, go to
IMPERIAL UNITS CHEMICAL ADDITION PAGE
METRIC UNITS CHEMICAL ADDITION PAGE

11. STARTING EQUIPMENT - Now you can start your filter pump & make sure to run it for 24 hours straight to give it a good chance to clean the fine rubbish in the water, then go back to your normal daily running 6-8 hours.

IF YOU HAVE ANY MORE PROBLEMS TRY OUR FAQ PAGE FOR PDF FILE ANSWERS "STILL GOT PROBLEMS"

HAPPY SUMMER SWIMMING.



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Web Page written by:
Victor K de Fontenay © April 1999

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